Hiran Minar, Sheikhupura

What do you do when your favourite pet antelope has died, and you want to build a memorial for him? It’s a question we’ve all faced in life, right? No? Ok then.

Even if you have never pondered this question, you’re about to find out the answer. The Mughal Empire in the subcontinent stretched over what is now Pakistan and northern India for over two hundred years. The Mughals were known for their lavish, over-the-top ceremonies and elaborate royal traditions. Biryani, the tricky, layered steamed rice and meat dish? That was invented by them. The man behind the Taj Mahal, Shah Jahan, built it as a tomb for one of his late wives.

Shah Jahan’s father Jehangir was particularly fond of nature – both observing it in the semi-wild and hunting it for pleasure. Forty kilometres to the west of Lahore lies one of Jehangir’s former game reserves, a pretty park surrounded by scrubby forest, and centered on a large central rectangular lake. In the centre of the lake is a pavilion, carved out of stone, accessed by a long causeway. Although it’s not clear exactly what the pavilion was used for, some have speculated that it was designed and used as a hunting watchpoint, while some suggest that Jehangir would go and sit there when he wanted to get away from it all.

When Jehangir’s pet antelope Mansiraj, died in 1606 (a year after Jehangir’s coronation) he ordered for the animal to be buried within the game reserve, returning his dear pet to the natural environs he was so fond of. Not content at simply burying the animal, he ordered for a minar (minaret) to be built at the site as a kind of giant headstone. The minaret is 30 metres tall, sandstone and its outside inscribed with a eulogy to Mansiraj. As such the reserve has been known as Hiran Minar (the “Deer Minaret”).

Since the fall of the Mughal empire, the reserve has been open to the public, although no hunting takes place here nowadays. Close to Sheikhupura, a satellite city of Lahore, it attracts picnickers and day trippers to loll around under the trees and take a punt on the lake in one of the small pedalboats fo rent. The park is really lovely, although on special occasions like Eid it would be nice if more people used the rubbish bins which are in plentiful supply.

Sheikhupura and Hiran Minar are an easy half-day trip from Lahore, but by public transport or your own car. If you are coming on public transport from Lahore take the Lahore MetroBus to the Shahdara stop. And you exit the station ask for the buses or minivans for Sheikhupura – you’ll be hustled into one for Rs. 70. The trip takes about an hour including stops. Once you’re in Sheikhupura, as to be dropped at Batti Chowk. Most vans/buses stop here. Then get a rickshaw (or more likely, a qingqi rickshaw, pronounced ching-chee) to Hiran Minar. The rickshaw will cost Rs. 100 and entry to the site is Rs. 500. It is technically open from sunrise to sunset, although business hours are more likely.

What’s the most unusual tomb you’ve ever visited? Comment below!