Mexico Food & Liquor

When was the last time you had good Mexican food? I mean REALLY good Mexican food? For a cuisine so widely recognised, which has gone through so many revivals, and which is currently staging a comeback, there are remarkably few Mexican restaurants which would really knock your socks off. Thankfully, if you are in Sydney, salvation is here. Above a pub near Central Station is Mexico Food & Liquor, an easily missed yet not-to-be-missed restaurant dishing up some of the best Mexican fare this side of the Pacific Ocean.

Entering from a doorway on Randle Street, just off Chalmers Street in Surry Hills, we are greeted by a friendly smile and led to our tables. The ranch-style decor strikes a delightful balance between kitsch and authentic – floorboards, barstools and plants complete the look. We are visiting at lunch on a Saturday, and the place is already filling up with passersby looking for a delicious bite to eat. On my friend’s recommendation, we order the Mexico fried chicken, soft beef tacos and a virgin margarita. The frozen virgin margarita – a whole jug of the hyper-coloured tonic – turns up at our table within minutes, and is every bit as sweet and tangy as it should be. The salt-rimmed glasses are an extra special touch – the salt compliments the intense sweetness wonderfully.

Next on to the table is the fried chicken – a delicious, tangy and slightly spicy glaze coats the wings, which are dripping with flavour in every bite. Order a bowl to share – and yes, you ought to use your fingers! Not much later, the tacos arrive – their soft shells warm and filled with the fragrant grilled beef. Atop the pile of chopped meat are bright green chillis which add a bit of bite, but aren’t overbearingly spicy. (For the spice junkies out there, habanero sauce is on hand to provide the desired kick). The beef tacos were made to a different recipe just a month ago when I visited – now they come with pork crackling on them as part of the package, but there are also other delicious options such as lamb, prawns, or the amazing-sounding chicken in mole poblano (a Mexican savoury cocoa gravy). Also on the menu are quesadillas, salads and a wicked dulce du leche (creamy caramel) tart for dessert. However I’m sold on the chicken and the beef – we order additional tacos to fill us up.

The friendly-yet-unintrusive waitstaff and the colourful surroundings are conducive to a cheery mood and that is reflected in our conversation. Before we know it, we have eaten our way through several dishes and it is time to head back into the city. I’m very impressed by the experience of Mexico Food & Liquor, in part because of the carefree atmosphere where I almost felt as if I was on holiday for the hour which I spent there. However the winning deal here is the food – not just Mexican, but really, really good Mexican – among the best I’ve had. And if my gushing hasn’t sold you, taste food surely will.

Details

Food: 9/10

Ambience: 9/10

Service: 8/10

Cost: $6 – 16 each for sharing dishes, $7 each for soft shell tacos

17 Randall Street, Surry Hills

Monday – Sunday: 12 noon – late

mexicofoodandliquor.com.au