Nightmarish traffic, disgraceful pollution… so why do I still love Tehran?
Tehran: Iran’s beautifully ugly capital
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Iran
Crossing from Turkmenistan to Iran at Bajgiran
Crossing from Turkmenistan to Iran at Bajgiran is easy enough – but the border officials take their job seriously!
The Secrets of Central Asia
Welcome to a land of secrets, a treasure-trove of adventure waiting to be unlocked and explored; Central Asia.
Travelling during Muharram
Is it safe? Can I leave the hotel? Will everything be closed? The ultimate guide to travelling during Muharram in Muslim countries.
Bam, Iran, after the earthquake
Bam, Iran, shot to the headlines on Boxing Day 2003 when it was almost levelled by an earthquake. Two years later I visited, camera in hand, notepad and pen at the ready.
Mahan: an oasis in the Iranian desert
Just outside Mahan, Iran, the stunning Bagh-e Shahzade gardens are like being transported to another world for a while.
Yazd, the oldest town on Earth?
Yazd, possibly the oldest town on Earth, is an important centre for the ancient Persian religion of Zoroastrianism.
Esfahan’s Si-o-se Bridge: Soul Food
Esfahan is a place to focus on art, literature and the finer things in life; and the best place to forget your worldly concerns is Si-o-Se Bridge.
Esfahan… nesf-e jahan
Esfahan nesf-e jahan… “Esfahan is half the world”. This couplet rings true in Imam Square, one of the world’s most magnificent historic marvels.