Chai your best: a review of Lahore’s best chai dens

You know when you really, really need a cup of tea? Coffee won’t cut it – you need a moment of peace, not a kick up the arse. Every bone in your body is aching for a cup of Darjeeling…

Yeah, like her.

A friend from Karachi once told me that “Lahore doesn’t do chai. In Karachi, it’s a way of life, in Lahore it’s just a fashion thing”.

In a way, they had a point – in Karachi, a strong chai or five is what gets people through their day at the office, and keeps people awake as they hang out with their friends into the small hours. In the Punjabi capital, on the other hand, chai is something frequently drunk by the lounging ladies of Lahore at an afternoon meet up, or romantically sipped while gazing longingly out at the monsoonal rain.

But a change has come to Lahore, particularly romantically named Khyaban-e-Firdousi in the southern suburb of Johar Town. Here a glut of new chai joints have opened up, inspired by mostly a changing nightlife culture in the capital, large available plots and the sudden interest in the area since the opening of Emporium Mall a few years ago.

These chai places are all of a similar format; different variations of the hot milky liquid served up with reasonably priced meals in a chilled out, casual outdoor setting. Other drinks are usually offered too, but the chai is the star attraction. Several other restaurants also exist on the strip, including The Joint, The Patio, Escobar, What’a Paratha, and at the end near UCP, no shortage of burger places, but none of these quite match the same laidback, no-need-to-leave-soon chill of the eight chai spots on this strip.

So in the name of journalism and chai, my friends and I have set out to sample and rate each of Johar Town’s best new chai stops.

Chai Chubara

Service – 4/5
Ambiance – 4/5
Variety – 3/5 (not many cold drinks)
Taste – 4/5 – chai was creamy and flavoursome, not at all bitter
Games available; ludo and chess
What we loved; Rooftop location, good view over Johar Town, and when we were there someone was playing guitar and jamming with his friend at a table
What we didn’t; On the 3rd floor, you have to climb for your chai here
Good for; hanging out for ages, bring your family or friends
www.facebook.com/chaichubara

Cup O Tea

Service – 3
Ambiance– 2
Variety – 2 – there’s not a lot of choice of chai
Taste – 4 – full bodied, creamy chai
Games available; ludo
What we loved; it’s not very crowded – you’ll always get a seat, nice if you want a quiet spot (quiet meaning alone). The French toast is the stuff of dreams.
What we didn’t; bad/weird choice of music, the theming is a bit… lacking?
Good for; The French toast, and a simple, straightforward cuppa in a relaxed setting
www.facebook.com/cupotea.393F

Chaaye Waala

Service – 4
Ambiance – 5
Variety – 5
Taste – 4 – we chose the nawabi chai (made with saffron)
Games available; no
What we loved; beautiful garden set-up, lanterns strung up from an old tree, exposed brick and an old rickshaw set the tone
What we didn’t; it looks lovely, but there’s a fine line between romantic states of disrepair and just simple rundown. The vibe in this place is also a little macho – it doesn’t have the softness of some of the other places
Good for; quiet, nawabi chai on a romantic rainy evening
www.facebook.com/chaayewaalabt

Chai Deewan

Service – 1 – we needed to shout to get the waiter’s attention
Ambiance – 3
Variety– 3
Taste – 2 – it was just ok
Games available; no
What we loved; it’s intimate, and the decor is funky – those old chairs!
What we didn’t; disinterested, awkward service, smelly toilets, and a lot of menu items (including many cold drinks) were unavailable
Good for; dates away from prying eyes
www.facebook.com/chaideewan

Cup Shup

Service – 1 – on nearly every time I’ve been here, I’ve had to shout and wave to be noticed by anyone
Ambiance– 3
Variety – 5 – Cup Shup’s menu game is the strongest of all of these places
Taste – 5 – the chai was strong but not heavy
Games available; no
What we loved; a huge food and cold drinks menu with a lot of variety
What we didn’t; Did the waiters come to serve us, or just hang around the bar?
Good for; dinner
www.facebook.com/CupShup.pk

Chaaye Ghar

Service – 3
Ambiance – 4
Variety – 4
Taste – 4 – creamy and satisfying
Games available; no
What we loved; bed/charpoy-type things, pretty paintings on the wall, clean and calm, good music, the burgers are great!
What we didn’t; service is occasionally a bit slow, the theming is a little confused – although it’s not lacking atmosphere
Good for; a nice evening out
www.facebook.com/chaayegharlahore

Laung Laachi

Service – 4
Ambiance – 5 – my personal favourite
Variety – 4
Taste – 5 – again, my personal favourite
Games available; ludo and others
What we loved; chilled ambiance, friendly and well maintained
What we didn’t; When the light goes the generator gets a bit noisy, plus the kitchen fan can be a bit noisy too. This place gets busy – I’ve had to wait for a seat before.
Good for; lively and chilled evenings out
www.facebook.com/LaungLaachiOfficial

Chaye Qawali

Service – 4
Ambiance – 5 – live qawali each night!
Variety – 4
Taste – 4 – taste the special chaye, topped with crushed nuts!
Games available; ludo and others
What we loved; Live qawali each night, a really fun atmosphere, the staff are very accommodating, and in the hot weather a mist system cools it all down
What we didn’t; it’s not quiet, and it’s a bit of a sausage party. My friend commented that if I wasn’t there, she would have donned her dupatta. Also, there’s a lack of pedestal fans for tables in the hot weather.
Good for; free entertainment!
www.facebook.com/chayeqawali

Have you chai’d any of these? Let me know what you think in the comments below!