Amethyst: the secret garden of Chennai

Written by Tim Blight

Writer, traveller, amateur photographer, teacher. Based in Melbourne and Lahore.

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May 5, 2013

Amethyst

In the heart of Chennai, just off busy, dusty Whites Road, lies a green and peaceful gem named Amethyst. Separated from the street by high walls, a garden greets those who venture past the driveway. Through the leafy arch and up the garden path stands an old home which has been converted into a boutique selling clothes and accessories, flowers, designer furniture and tasty treats to savour.

The moment I enter from the road, the temperature drops. Tropical flowers spill over the garden edges and on to the pathway, while a fountain trickles in the background. What is it about greenery and the sound of water which instantly cools the body and calms the mind? A couple of steps lead me to the expansive wooden deck, adorned with relaxed cane furniture and whirring ceiling fans. Definitely a colonial-era setting, but with a mix of patrons; latte-sipping well-to-do locals, foreigners nursing tall glasses of iced tea, a handful of families, couples, lunching ladies and friends, all seeking refuge from the intense afternoon sun.

Taking a seat, my friend recommends the citrus cake to go with my coffee. After a wait we are served eventually, but it doesn’t take long for our order to be delivered. The vibrant yellow of the citrus cake gleams on its spotless white china plate, while the caffè latte appears as hot and languid as the Chennai afternoon. A light breeze rolls in off the garden as I bite into the soft, spongy texture of the cake – it’s magically fluffy and moist, but not dry or too light either. The coffee, although slightly bitter, hits the spot, and is offset by the cake which just dissolves in my mouth. As the sun begins to sink lower and the shadows draw longer, I consider ordering a lemon iced tea – sure to hit the spot this hot afternoon.

Along with the cakes and croissants, Amethyst serves up an assortment of sandwiches and light meals, mostly off a continental menu. The smart interior of the cafe is air conditioned, and from there one can walk through to the gift store featuring all sorts of merchandise. Directly across the road are Sathyam Cinemas, and down the road is Express Avenue, making the Amethyst a logical next-stop before or after a movie or shopping trip. The cafe seating on the long open verandah is the main drawcard here, especially in the summer. While Amethyst’s staff aren’t famed for their helpfulness, the menu isn’t known for being great value, and the savoury dishes aren’t life-changing, there are few places which can compare when it comes to ambience on a lazy afternoon in the Tamil capital.